SPECIALTY OF THE HOUSE: ONION RINGS, Lisa Kestler,

The onion ring is deceptively simple. Just a slice of onion, battered and fried.

But there are so many things you can do to screw up an onion ring. Leave on too much of that thin outer skin, and you get a ring that falls apart when you try to bite into it. Too much batter, and you can't taste the onion. Too much grease, and things just get disgusting.

The Texas Grill, luckily, doesn't know how to do any of the above. They turn out an onion ring that is a thing of beauty: The onions are sliced paper -thin. The batter is mild, so that it complements but doesn't overpower the onions' sweetness. There's just a hint of grease, to prove they're fresh from the fryer.

The Texas Grill serves up a hefty number of onion rings at a bargain price. Side 'em with a third-pound, char-grilled burger -- quite a thing of beauty in itself, with a lean, juicy patty and real leaf lettuce.

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