A GOOD BET FOR FAMILIES, Beverly Bundy, Fort Worth Star-Telegram

Ya gotta love a restaurant where a family of four can eat for less than $20.

Apparently a lot of people feel just that way about the Texas Grill, because the 8-year-old Benbrook restaurant has now opened a new location on Camp Bowie Boulevard and is packing in the crowds.

The place bustles at lunch, with crowds of assorted working folks stopping in for one of its famed burgers or plate meals. At night, it's just as busy, with a mixed crowd of empty-nesters and parents with young children lining up for an affordable dinner.

The burgers are always a good bet for lunch or dinner. Third-pound flattish patties served on coffee-saucer-size buns, the burgers can be ordered old-fashioned, dolled up with mushrooms and Swiss cheese, or new-wavish with guacamole.

Or go the whole nine yards and order up the chili-cheese burger with sauteed onions, a mighty fine choice on a cold evening, or the bacon burger with cheese for the stevedores who are shingling a roof during the afternoon.

If there's a child in the crowd, there's a kid-burger meal that includes a "smaller" version of the sandwich (but we'd say plenty big enough for children up to 16 years old) and a seemingly regular-sized version of the Grill's wonderful french fries.

While burgers are sure to please the kids, Mom and Dad can get grown-up meals for not much more. Our favorite is the queso chicken. A grilled chicken breast is dressed with melted cheese and a nicely piquant Mexican garnish of tomatoes and peppers. I wouldn't be surprised to find this little number on tonier menus for $12.95.

Entrees come with two side orders. I'd recommend the potato salad, a really gutsy store-made version with pickles, onions and a lot of personality. Also good are the red beans and rice.

Either way it's cheap, wholesome fare for folks tired of the sameness of chain family restaurants.