GRILL OF MY DREAMS, Kathryn Jones

A good basic grill is becoming a hard place to find these days.

We found one in the original Texas Grill on Highway 377 in Benbrook, which has attracted a crowd of regulars with its big char-broiled burgers and chicken and skin-on french fries.

A good grill with a few more options and a more accessible location is even better. We found that too, when Texas Grill owners Veronica and Tim Young opened a second version of their popular grill on Camp Bowie West.

The restaurant, which opened in 1997 in a strip center behind Bennigan's, is spiffier and brighter than the original. It has paneled walls and green vinyl-covered booths, decorative accents include Western prints, rusty horseshoes on the walls and blooming cactus in pots.

But not to worry: Texas Grill hasn't gone completely upscale and forgotten its roots. The newer spot has the same thick burgers and crispy fries as the original plus an expanded menu with a range of sandwiches, salads, vegetables and such new items as cayenne chicken.

Diners order at the front counter, and the food is brought out when ready. This is the kind of place where they call your name instead of giving you a number.

Burger lovers can choose from 10 varieties, all made from a third pound of beef charbroiled to order. We liked the mushroom-Swiss burger, topped with sauteed mushrooms, onions and Swiss cheese.

Also good is the ranchero burger, dressed with sauteed onions, spicy salsa and melted cheddar.

The grilled chicken breast, available on a sandwich or as a full meal, was butterflied, seasoned and grilled. Best was the cayenne chicken which was dusted with cayenne pepper and very juicy. It was spicy, but not searingly so.

Also on the menu as full meals -- which are served with two side orders -- are chicken kebabs, chicken fried steak, fried catfish fillets, fried chicken breast and a burger combo.

Of the side orders don't miss the home-style fries. When we saw the mountain of potatoes on the plate, we swore we couldn't eat them all. But they all disappeared.

Also good were the pinto beans, which had a nice smoky flavor. The coleslaw, though, was a bit bland for our tastes. Other sides to choose from are mashed potatoes, potato salad, fruit, fried zucchini, green beans, fried okra and sliced tomatoes.

Ignoring our consciences, we bypassed the salads: chef, grilled chicken, garden, tuna and dinner salad. Takeout orders are also available.

It's hard to beat a neighborhood grill for a good, quick, cheap meal. The new Texas Grill covers the basics and more. The longer menu is welcome and so is the shorter trip.

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