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ON YOUR PLATE, Bud Kennedy, Fort Worth Star-Telegram

GRAB THIS TWO-FISTED BLT ASAP

The BLT gets no respect. Treated as an afterthought by short order cafes, relegated to bottom-line bargain status in sandwich shops, the BLT is a forgotten meal in these days of the "ultimate combo" and the "super turkey club."

Not at the Texas Grill.

The two Texas Grills --- one in the Ridglea neighborhood of west Fort Worth, and the other in Benbrook --- are down-home burger-and-home-cooking cafes. They serve good charcoal-broiled burgers, chicken kebabs and fried catfish. And a bang-up BLT.

You've probably ordered somebody else's bacon-lettuce-and-tomato sandwich. It probably came with lame iceberg lettuce, a skinny tomato slice and a couple of tiny bacon strips.

The Texas Grill's BLT is a monument to the true bacon sandwich. It is thick Texas toast topped with 10 strips of bacon, enough to push the sandwich up to 2 inches thick. The green stuff is bright, healthy leaf lettuce, not pale iceberg. And the tomato slices are large, red and fresh, not the bottom of the barrel pink stuff.

At $3.59, it's not a bottom-line bargain, but it's the Cadillac of BLTs. Pick a side order from the Texas Grill's wide selection of 11 vegetables, including green beans, carrots and fried zucchini.